It all started with a phone call (and a tip from Serious Eats):
me: “How late are you open?”
them: “We’re cleaning up now.”
me: “ok, thank you.”
them: “so, you coming or what?”
me: “I won’t be able to get over there for about 15 minutes”
them “I’ll be here for 15 minutes”
me: “I’ll have a Willie’s Italian Special”
them: “one Italian Special”
me: “I’ll be there as soon as I can”
them “you better.”
At that point I thought I didn’t have enough time to walk the dog from my house to Graham Avenue Meats and Deli, so I through a tote bag on my shoulder, and rode like the wind on my bike. I was to the deli in less 6 minutes.
Upon walking into Graham Avenue Meats and Deli I experienced something that I haven’t smelled in years. Growing up my grandparents owned a Italian American restaurant in Youngstown, OH called Smaldino’s Family Restaurant, and we would occasional visit my grandfather’s friend Ralf. Ralf owned, still owns is more accurate, and Italian Specialty shop called Anzivino’s, also in Youngstown. I don’t really remember anything that was stocked in the store (but recall my grandfather picking up jars of this or that for the restaurant or for a holiday meal, but never knowing what was inside), but the smell is something that I remember vividly, and it’s probably been a good 15 years since I last smelled it…until I walked into Graham Ave Meats and Deli.
Graham Ave Meats and Deli is an all sensory experience (that is if you order something), and that smell I remember is exactly what I thought it was…a wide variety of delicious Italian treats. The smell literally through me back to my childhood. I knew at that point I had come across something special.
I walked up to the counter, and said to the man that “I called in a order over the phone,” and he responded “wow, you’re fast. you surprised me. I’ll make your sandwich right now, have a seat.” Rather than having a seat I looked around the shop. What I found was pasta of all shapes and sizes, both standard deli meats as well as Italian specialty meats, prepared foods, house made sausages, deserts, and more. I took my time looking around the small shop while the very nice man behind the counter carefully put together the enormous sandwich.
According to Serious Eats’ experience I’m pretty sure I was dealing with Willie himself, and the meats on the sandwich are whatever he is in the mood for so it may differ when you go to try this beast. Also this is very true:
“One thing you’ll be asked to choose, though, is whether you want your sandwich sweet or spicy. I got one of each. For the sweet sandwich, you’ll get sweet pickled red peppers and a milder provolone cheese. For the spicy, Willie squirts on chile-infused olive oil and switches to the a smoked provolone (via).”
I didn’t get the exact ingredients but I think it was something like prosciutto, salami or sopressata, and Italian ham, marinated onions, a little bit of lettuce and some tomato, smoked provolone, all topped with some chile infused oil and vinegar. I asked for it spicy. My anticipation was growing the whole time as the sandwich grew and grew When he finished the sandwich he asked “how much do you think it weighs?” and I had no idea, but he took much pride in telling me that it was a 1.25 pound sandwich. For a sandwich this big I think $8 is a very reasonable price.
I rode home as fast as I could…
Pictured above is half of this monster of a sandwich. A true Italian sandwich one that is so big that you can’t take a bite of the whole thing….you know what I mean…bites where you don’t get any bread. All of the meats were delicious, and the onions were marinated so well that they no longer really tasted like onions. The bread was huge, and fresh despite the fact that I probably got the last sandwich of the day. The interior of the sandwich was substantial enough to balance out the enormous loaf of bread that it was built on too. I enjoyed every minute of this sandwich, and new from the second bite that there would be atleast half of it left over.
Overall this is a sandwich to be craved, but for health reasons probably one you shouldn’t eat more than once every couple weeks.
Now compared to other Italian sandwiches…Willie’s kicks Anthony & Sons’ ass (less than a block away), and Anthony & Sons can make a decent sandwich. But the real gold standard is Mama’s of Corona. While there is something to be said about the legend of Mama’s of Corona and Mama’s Special, Willie’s Italian Special can stand up to it. The only thing that I noticed that is a huge difference, and this had to be pointed out to my by klk, is that Mama’s doesn’t mess with things like lettuce and tomatoes… Mama keeps it pure with just meat, cheese, and Italian specialty toppings like marinated peppers and mushrooms. While Graham Ave added these additional toppings, I can see how some people would like them, but I’ll opt next time to try it with out. I want to experience Willie’s Italian Special in it’s pure form with no miscellaneous veggies getting in the way of Willie’s choice deli meats.
To wrap it up If you are fan of Italian sandwiches(and if you love Mama’s or have read of Mama’s and can’t get there) Graham Avenue Meats and Deli will give you an amazing sandwich (some might even argue better than Mama’s, I’ve yet to make that decision…how can you pick between two killer sandwiches?) without leaving the comfort of Brooklyn. It’s a sandwich that you will not finish, and I’m saying this because I finished mine for breakfast the next morning. An amazing experience, and easily two meals.
Graham Avenue Meats and Deli are sandwich masters, and I look forward to seeing him again…but probably not for another week or two. Next time I might try the Godfather or this amazing looking home made roast beef sandwich.
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try this monster (Willie’s Italian Special costs $8), or pick up some Italian specialty items…Willie will treat you right:
Graham Avenue Meats and Deli
is located at
445 Graham Ave
(between Frost St & Richardson St)
Williamsburg, Brooklyn
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- more of my posts on food can be found here.
- if you are looking for sandwich specific posts try here.
- various reviews can be found here.
It’s a ciabatta roll with prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, basil, and home made asparagus feta pesto.
